Step By Step
Many people have expressed interest in just how their 'FisHeads' are created, so I've added some pictures, 'Step By Step', from origination to final signature. Enjoy.
CREATING FISHEAD NO. 22
Created Custom for Joanne Traer, my biggest fan.
1. Creating the Initial Concept.
As you can see, this process can be as informal as sketching it out on the work table.
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2. Laying Out the Fins.
Using a marker and 1/4" Foam Core Board, I layout the rough design.
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3. Cut the Fins.
Using a razor knife, I trim the fins to the shape I want.
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4. Wire the Fins.
Aluminum wires are inserted into all apendages to provide added support and strength, allowing me to manipulate the fins into any shape I desire.
First I use a razor knife to hollow out the edges of the fins, then aluminum wiring is inserted into the length of the fins and taped into place.
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5. Trim Wire Supports.
After all wiring is inserted and taped into place, ends are trimmed clean.
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6. Scoring the Fins.
All surface areas of the foam core fins/appendages are scored and then cross scored with a razor knife to allow for smooth curves when bending into the shapes I create.
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7. Appendages Layed Out.
This image shows all of the appendages, cut from foam core, wired, scored and trimmed prior to taping onto the body. These Appendages will be taped into place on the main body.
NOTE: The main body shape is made made from molds that I have made up ahead using 'Sculpt-A-Mold' a lightweight, ultra hard plaster-like material. Before it sets up hard, I insert a wire hanger clasp to hang the finished 'FisHead' when completed.
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8. Carving the Eyes.
Again using 'Sculp-A-Mold', a plaster-like material, I pre-poured these eyes into plastic egg molds to create the domelike eyes.
Here I am carving the forms to fit snugly onto the side of the main body.
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9. Eyes Attached to Body.
After carving the eyes to fit onto the body, I simply tape them into place.
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10. Creating Eyelids.
Using heavy card stock, I've cut a couple eyelids and bent the paper into place to form goofy looking eyelids.
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12. Creating Big Powty Lips.
Using a marker and 2" thick foam, I sketch out the rough shape of the lips.
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13. Carving the Lips.
Using a razor knife, I carefully cut away at the foam until I get the shape I want for lips.
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14. Lips, Eyes and Eyelids Attached to Body.
Here I must be careful to use only enough professional grade masking tape to secure all the appendages to the body as most of the strength of the attachment will be multiple layers of papier mache.
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15. A Naked Fishead, ready for Papier Mache.
Here is the assembled FisHead prior to papier mache, after having manipulated all the appendages into the curves and shape that I desire.
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16. Two Coats of Papier Mache are Hand Applied.
This is the most time consuming part of the piece. A fish this size takes about 10 hours of patient hand layering with incredible focus on detail for both structure and appearance. Thank God for apprentice helpers.
To get a super strong skin, I only use paper shop towells, twice the strength of paper and stretch, allowing the skin to pull tight as the air cures out of it.
After two coats of papier mache, three coats of PVA glue are applied, allowing a day in between each coat to allow for drying and shrinking. The piece below is ready, after a few more days of drying, for final prmier coats with gesso.
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17. Two Coats of 'Gesso' Primer are applied.
Gesso is a chalk like primer that provides a firm, bright white surface allowing colored tissues and acrylic washes to show through with their intended true colors.
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18. Patterns of Hand Dyed Batik Papers are cut and collaged onto the body.
To add additional texture, color and interest, random patterns of hand dyes Batik papers are cut and 'collaged' (glued) onto the body.
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19. Acrylic Paint Glazes are Layered In.
To achieve the rich textured look desired, I apply numerous acrylic glazes/washes (acrylic paints mixed with glazing compound, which extends the drying/working time of acrylics allowing me to create a watercolor effect). For this FisHead, 6 different glazes were applied.
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20. Almost Done. The mark of an original work of art, the signature.
With a fine point brush and black acrylic, each 'FisHead' is signed and dated. Inside of each FisHead, they are numbered. To date, we are up to number 27.
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21. Final Sealing.
3 final coats of acrylic lacquer are hand applied which provides permanent protection for each work of art, adding not only protection but substantially increases the richness of the numerous color and textures applied as well as creating a soft reflective finish.
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FisHead No. 22
Custom Created, with pride, for Joanne Traer.
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When a customer picks up their FisHead, they are presented with a signed and dated Certificate of Authenticity which also specifies suggestions for care and handling to ensure that each work of art will stand the test of time.
As you can see demonstrated in the previous 20 steps, each FisHead is incredibly well constructed and should last for many generations to come.
If you are interested in acquiring your own custom FisHead, just call and we can discuss the process. The average time period from initial conversation discussing style and shape to final delivery is approximately 4 weeks.
Please feel free to e-mail me with any questions and as always, comments and positive feedback are always appreciated. Commission works are also an option depending on the level of customer input.
The overwhelming comment that I receive from this section is "I had no idea that so much went in to your cute little paper mache creatures." Well, there is. That's what make them desireable - uncompromising quality from start to finish.
It has been my pleasure to demonstrate my art for you.
Louie Rochon
uswalker3@hotmail.com
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